Covered in soot from head to toe, looking like a coal miner, I stood atop Heiligenberg, a hill in Heidelberg, Germany. I was sitting on a log, leaning in close to a bon fire that was fiercely spewing flames from its depths. My hands reached out toward the flames, welcoming the warmth.
It was a chilly May night. I was in Thingstätte, an amphitheater built by the Nazis in 1935 to accommodate propaganda rallies and festivals. I was taking part in Germany’s May 1st holiday, a celebration of spring and worker’s rights.
The outdoor amphitheater was built on the side of a hill. A person sitting in the last row, at the top of the amphitheater, would sit upon a long curved stone slab. The seating was designed in a semi-circle that looked upon the main spherical stage with a gate-like structure behind it.
The amphitheater was surrounded by trees, which, like many of the amphitheaters built during the “Thing” movement, incorporated natural surroundings. A Thing was an ancient Nordic/Germanic public meeting in an outdoor setting. During the 1930’s about 1,200 amphitheaters similar to Heidelberg’s had been planned, however only about 40 were actually built because the movement was not very popular with the people and the Nazi Party lacked interest after a while.
Strangers sat across from me on the other side of the fire, chatting and laughing with their friends. A few others were dispersed in groups around the amphitheater with mini bon fires they had created. They were continuing the revelry that had begun on the previous day.
Everyone was enjoying the moment, except my friend and me. Our merriment had waned in the wake of an upsetting event, of which the effects were now in the forefront of our minds.
It was the early morning hours of May 2. The moon hung above me, big and beautiful, however all I wanted in that moment was for the sun to come up. My friend and I had agreed we would wait together until sunrise so we could see the ground with clarity. Only then, with light, we would be able to search the grounds accurately for our purses, which had been stolen earlier in the night.
I was grateful my apartment keys were in my jean pocket. With keys, I could hide away for a few hours and forget that I had no passport to get me back to the U.S., zero Euros on hand, and no bankcard to access funds. I needed rest before attempting to communicate my situation to the police in another language.
Earlier, the day had begun with glee. University students gathered at the base of Heiligenberg to enjoy a hike to the top. It was tradition to walk up the hill to Thingstätte and enjoy barbeques, conversations, and bon fires as several musicians played songs. A day that had started with such joy of new friendships and discovery of culture was left sour.
While that day was filled with mixed emotions, the actual place is magical. The city is akin to something out of a Grimm fairytale. There are several idyllic paths to get to Thingstätte, however the most awe-inspiring is Philosophenweg, or Philosopher’s path. Der Philosophenweg is a path leading up the hillside next to the Neckar River. It provides beautiful views of old town Heidelberg and the romantic ruins of the Schloss, or castle.
Getting to Philosophenweg is interesting in itself. One begins from the old town, proceeding over the Alte Brücke, or old bridge. The Alte Brücke has two notable white towers on either side of the entrance. You can stop and take a photo next to the bronze monkey statue, which holds a mirror in one of his hands and has the other extended out, as if ready for a high-five. He has two accompanying mice nearby. Legend has it, if you touch the monkey’s mirror you will have good health, touch the two mice you will be gifted with fertility, and touch the monkey’s hand you will return to Heidelberg.
After you cross the bridge, and probably take hundreds of photos of the beauty surrounding you, head to the left at an angle to find a path called Schlangenweg, or snake path. Schlangenweg leads to Philosophenweg. After stopping for fabulous views or a picnic along the way, you can continue up to the top of Heiligenberg, where Thingstätte is located.
A nice time to walk Philosophenweg is in the evening, when the sun is setting because the light accentuates the orange rooftops of the old town. Reflections of buildings and crew teams rowing also offer interesting shadows on the river.
The path is lined with tropical plants from the Mediterranean, North Africa, and Asia. It is unusual to see these plants in Germany, however the Neckar Valley’s microclimate accommodates the plants.
Travels With Alison 