A Traveler’s Confession

I have a confession: I’ve been a hoarder this year.

Negative connotations probably take hold of the psyche with the mere mention of the word “hoard.” Visions of junk pervade the mind. However, obsessively collecting possessions in pack rat fashion is not the type of hoard I mean.

I’ve been hoarding something that doesn’t take up space and is invisible. I’ve been collecting it through abstinence.

The construct I’ve been accumulating is time. I’ve taken less than one week of vacation all year.

I survived by capitalizing on long holiday weekends and traveling to nearby states. I worked from home occasionally, which felt like a holiday being in pajamas on a Tuesday.

Don’t get me wrong: I vacationed. I went to Mexico and thoroughly enjoyed it. However, I spaced that trip out among the other days I used. I also took mental holidays away from the hustle of life.

I sacrificed using up my vacation time because I knew the reward of having a massive amount of vacation in the new year would be worth it.

I leave you with a staycation in North Point Park.

 

Quintana Roo, Mexico

The palm tree shadows showed as designs on my legs. The dry sandy path leading me to the cenote left white specs of sand on my sandal-laden feet. The surrounding area was a swamp-like forest.

Our destination was a cenote, a natural pool of water that is caused by collapsed bedrock thereby exposing ground water from beneath.

My friend and I were told the cenote was closed. It was our last day in Mexico so that wouldn’t do. We convinced the gatekeepers to let us in early so we could meet back up with our fellow bachelorette-celebrating friends to catch out flight.

As we reached the mangrove-surrounded cenote, we saw we were not alone. Three locals, two men and a woman, were also enjoying an early morning swim. The men sat on a low hanging tree branch, surrounding a cooler of beer.

My eyes fell on the woman who was fully submerged in the water. She seemed out of place, fully clothed in jeans and a long sleeve shirt instead of a bathing suit.

She looked on curiously as we debated whether to jump in.

Our question was whether there was anything in the depths of the dark water that might try to eat us. The woman appeared carefree. I put my trust in her confidence and followed suit by jumping in.

A few joint cannonball sessions and we were taking photographs together.

Cannonballing into the mangrove-surrounded cenote.

The gatekeeper joined…

Five days earlier, seven of us had met at the Cancun airport to celebrate our friend’s last days of singledom. It was my first time in Mexico and a much-anticipated trip after another New England winter.

Our first stop was Playa del Carmen, a seaside city in the Gulf of Mexico, approximately thirty minutes from the Cancun airport. The stretch of beach is lined with restaurants and hotels. The city has lots of nightlife options.

A pathway from the beach to downtown.

On our second day, we took a ferry to the island of Cozumel for an active day of snorkeling and exploring the beaches on the far side of the island.

On a rooftop, looking out at the colorful and palm tree-lined main street in Cozumel.

Waves crashing on the far-side of the island.

Lifeguard stand surrounded by rock and greenery.

Beach bug.

Snorkel session.

After experiencing the nightlife, and surviving a barefoot walk on the cracked pavement, we headed to Tulum, a yoga retreat town. This laid back beach town provides words of wisdom from street signs to inviting beach signs.

Self-explanatory.

Tulum also offers Mayan ruins, which are strategically placed on a dramatic cliff that plunges into the ocean.

View from the ruins.

The essentials: hydration, transportation, and readiness for the beach.

We rented bicycles to explore the ins and outs of Tulum.

Beach bungalow.

Overall, the coastal Mexican towns of Playa del Carmen and Tulum make for a fun tropical getaway. With warm turquoise waters, fantastic tacos, historic ruins, and colorfully sewn fabrics you can’t go wrong. These areas are touristy for good reason.

The Real Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville is a coastal city situated among hills in southwestern Cambodia. It boasts miles of continuous beach and large volcanic rock to climb on. The turquoise water is warm enough to swim in the entire day. Looking out into the vast Gulf of Thailand, tropical islands dot the horizon.

The city is named after King Norodom Sihanouk. Read or listen to this NPR article to learn more about him.

Cambodia is full of natural and manmade treasures. A natural example is the wild fruit that grows everywhere. An example of a manmade masterpiece is the temples that were erected during the Khmer Empire, which ruled for over 600 years and who had immense power, wealth, and stunning artistic and architectural achievements.

However, it is also a country still recovering from a horrific genocide that took place from 1975-1979. It has widespread poverty and is rife with corruption.

Beyond the beautiful white sand beaches and luxury hotels of Sihanoukville lies a fishing village. This is the real Sihanoukville.

On our second day in the resort city, my friends and I went for a walk. We climbed volcanic rock, dug our feet into the hot sand, and bought bags full of chopped pineapple with long toothpicks to help us select pieces without a mess. I adhered the bag to my purse and trekked the beach.

The landscape began to change from luxury hotels to natural palm trees. Little boys flew their kites and curiously followed us. Finally we came upon a small town that showed a drastically different picture from the area we were staying in.

Rust covers the side of homes and trash wastes away on the walking path through the town. A friendly dog joined us on our journey.

Fish drying on a rack outside.

And yet, the residents’ have a spectacular view.

Above are girls I met who were preparing fish for a stew.

Boats returned to a pier from a fishing expedition.

Seeing this town was actually one of my favorite days. It was eye-opening to view a way of life I was unaccustomed to.

Somehow, I felt inspired seeing everyone working with their hands. A little ways past the village, my friend found some coconuts. Hungry and without a knife, I decided to attempt opening my coconut on rocks. I began striking the coconut on the jagged edge. Slowly but surely, I was able to peel back the outer skin and crack it open.

Naturally, this led to a yoga/workout session on the rocks…

Namaste.

 

 

Architectural Edition: Inside Boston Public Library

With lavish masonry work and notable murals by well-known artists, Boston Public Library is an example of Beaux-Arts Renaissance architecture. The gorgeous architectural elements were planned by architect Charles McKim.

Beaux-Arts refers to the American renaissance period from 1890 to 1920 which incorporated French and Italian renaissance and neoclassical revivals. Renaissance style consists of heavy ornamentation, sculptural decoration, and large-scale compositions.

Bates Hall: a reading room.

Bates Hall is a reading room of grand stature. The lavish classical style helped secure the library’s place among National Historic Landmarks. The reading room has fifteen arched and grilled windows. The ceiling soars 50 feet high in barrel vault style, lending to the semi-cylindrical appearance. The room is 218 feet long and 42.5 feet wide.

Entrance at Dartmouth Street

Boston Public Library describes itself as being the first free publicly supported large municipal library in the world and, amazingly, the first to allow people to take books out on loan. The library’s collection is significant with 23 million items which includes rare books, maps, and musical scores.

The entrance of the McKim building at Dartmouth Street has a luxurious marble staircase, several large murals, and two lion statues leading to the second floor.

Lion sculpture at Dartmouth street entrance

At the center of the library is a courtyard where patrons can inhale fresh air and sit by a fountain. Looking up, one can see nearby skyscrapers. The arches, columns, and balustraded sill add a dramatic touch.

Fountain in courtyard

Courtyard

The McKim building at Boston Public Library is worth a stop to view extravagant rooms, skillful masonry, and decadent murals by artist John Singer Sargent. The Beaux-Arts architecture is grandiose in scale and detail. If you find yourself shopping on Newbury Street, walk over to Copley Square and take retreat in the courtyard for a quiet moment.

 

Hiking Yosemite National Park

Amid alpines and clear skies, I sat on a granite rock and looked out toward Half Dome, a Yosemite National Park landmark. The rock formation’s name is derived from its appearance of being a dome cut in half. One side is a steep 90 degree angle while the other three are rounded.

I was on the John Muir trail, a 210.4-mile trail according to the United States Geological Survey. Unlike some hikers traveling the whole distance, I was only climbing a portion of the trail for a day trip. My group started at 6am to get in as much isolation as possible on the popular Mist Trail. With motivating views in store, getting up early on this vacation was easy.

We began our steep ascent from Happy Isle Bridge, the prelude hike to the Mist and John Muir Trail junction. We shed multiple layers of clothing quickly. Gorgeous views of valleys rewarded us. When we reached the junction, we refilled our water bottles at the water-stop and forged on to Mist Trail.

Mist Trail runs along a river and keeps up a steady incline. As we reached the top of the waterfall, we found flatter terrain to perch upon. We listened to the thundering water and looked below at the colorful speckles of people climbing toward us.

Proceeding further, we scouted views of a second waterfall, Nevada Falls, off in the distance. We navigated our way back to the John Muir Trail. This would loop us back to where we began. I looked toward Half Dome, squinting to see if I could spot anyone scaling the side.

As we continued our descent, we dropped to the so-called “Ice Cut,” or Panarama Cliff, which gets its name from the dangerous winter conditions.

Those eager to continue along John Muir Trail have Kings Canyon, Sequoia National Park and breathtaking views in the Sierra Nevada to look forward to. The footpath links up with the Pacific Crest Trail for about 100 miles. A majority of the trail is in high elevation, around 8,000-10,000 feet.

The John Muir Trail is named after naturalist John Muir who was an early supporter in the preservation of the United States wilderness and creator of the Sierra Club. As an activist, he petitioned Congress to designate Yosemite as a national park. You can read his books, essays, and letters which reflect upon the spiritual connection between nature and people.

Yosemite is a refreshing experience that allows you to disconnect from daily life and be in  awe of the world’s natural beauty. In celebration of National Park’s centennial birthday, consider taking a trip to one of the 58 national parks. Enjoy a new perspective, challenge your body to adjust to new heights, and disconnect from technology for a quiet moment in nature. I extended my trip by a week so I could dive into all things San Francisco. Read my San Francisco restaurant and activity recommendations here!

A Ride Through Koh Kong

Join me on the back of a motorcycle, traveling through the streets of Koh Kong, Cambodia!

San Francisco: Recommendations Around the City

Weaving through the streets of San Francisco’s flattest district, the Mission, I sauntered casually past cyclists and down graffiti alleyways. I stood before Bernal Heights hill. Unlike most hills in San Francisco, it is undeveloped besides the radio tower at the crest. I climbed the steep dirt path surrounded by straw-colored grasses, the California state flower, California poppy, and joined dog walkers. Atop are expansive views of the city. I oriented myself, noting places I had already visited and created a mental map of the city for later use. I could have used google maps, but sometimes getting lost allows you to find unforeseen treasures. Read on for some of those jewels, including restaurant, museum, shopping, and activity recommendations.

Restaurants

Blue Plate, 3218 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110, blueplatesf.com

This eatery boasts American new dishes with a Mediterranean twist. Each dish is strategically laid out on the plate with artistic grace. It won my affection for the most impressive restaurant I ate at on my trip. Unique pairings from locally-sourced farms were mouth-watering, such as artichoke soup with raspberries and chopped peanuts sprinkled on top. My friend and I opted to eat tapas-style and sampled several dishes. The atmosphere was cozy and rustic with an open kitchen. Divided into three main rooms, we sat in the middle, where we enjoyed a glass of red wine and relished in flavorful moments.

Cinderella Bakery & Cafe, 436 Balboa St, San Francisco, CA 94118, http://cinderellabakery.com/home.html

Moving from Blue plate’s innovative take on American, Cinderella’s slides in with traditional done right. I stumbled upon this Russian Bakery & Café while seeking out completely different food. My friend, who lived in Korea for some time, tipped me off about a great Korean place located by the Conservatory of Flowers, a botanical garden in Golden Gate Park.

As I came to a halt in front of Muguboka, the Korean restaurant, it was dark. I found a sign confirming my suspicion it was closed on Tuesdays. I looked across the street and saw a bakery with wood-paneled outdoor seating surrounded by an oasis of succulents. I darted toward it, eager to find a place to recharge my camera and review my photographs of rare flowers from the Conservatory. As I entered, a waft of savory meat lay in the air. I realized this would not be a quick stop for a camera charge. Instead, my eyes scanned the Russian menu of meat pies and sandwiches.

This Russian gem on Balboa Street has homey foods that could conjure late Tsars from their graves by its sheer smell of alluring sweet and savory treats. Adding to it’s gravitational pull is its proximity to museums of interest, such as the deYoung Museum https://deyoung.famsf.org/, Academy of Science http://www.calacademy.org/, Japanese Tea Garden http://japaneseteagardensf.com/, and San Francisco Botanical Garden http://www.sfbotanicalgarden.org/.

El Techo, 2516 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110, http://eltechosf.com/

This Latin American rooftop restaurant has sweeping city views. It lies above its sister restaurant, Lolinda http://lolindasf.com/. Wait in line, proceed past the beautiful attendant, who manages to pull off a buzz cut, and ride an elevator to the top floor. There seems like a lot of waiting involved, but it’s worth the unobscured city views and delicious small plates, featuring Argentine grilled meats. Dim lights, city views, and a young crowd chatting away under heat lamps on chillier nights make this place memorable.

Dandelion, 740 Valencia St., San Francisco, CA 94110, https://www.dandelionchocolate.com/

Chocolate lovers: you’ll be in heaven. No milk chocolate is served at this chocolate factory and café on Valencia Street in the Mission district. This small batch chocolate maker sells only 70% cocoa and higher. Chocolate is made on site with two ingredients: cocoa beans and sugar.

Activities

• Bike over Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito and Tiberon. Take the ferry back to the city.

• Meander through city districts.

• Climb Bernal Heights hill for superb city views.

• See and be seen at Mission Delores Park.

• Take a side trip to breath-taking Yosemite National Park.

Shopping

You’ll find uniquely curated stores on the streets listed below with clothing, home goods, antiques, and plenty of restaurants, bars, and coffee shops. Each street has its own character, giving off funky, chic, and lively vibes.

• Valencia Street-for the hipster-leaning folk
• Hayes Street-for chic individuals
• Linden Street-for Hayes Street’s on-trend sibling
• Haight-Ashbury-for a trip back to the 60’s
• Castro Street-everyone’s welcome!

San Francisco’s neighborhoods are interesting to walk through when you’re not in a rush. Each area is full of artistic delights, good coffee, and varied museums. If you’re visiting the city, check out Blue Plate for American new, Cinderella’s for Russian, El Techo for Latin American, and Dandelion for desert.  Of the museums I visited, Academy of Science was my favorite because of the wide array of sea creatures and because I went to adult night, which featured an outdoor rock concert. The art museum I enjoyed most, not mentioned above, was Legion of Honor for its collection of Auguste Rodin’s sculptures and the mummies and medicine exhibition. Get out there and start exploring!

 

Khmer Food

Cambodian food is indicative of a country with expansive rice fields, a plethora of fruit trees, and shores bursting with fish. There are delicious soups with shrimp, coconut-based waffles, and curried chicken. Fresh fish caught straight from rivers and oceans are in the market day of catch. On occasion, fish is biked to your front door by a local fisherman, looking to sell.

Just-purchased fish hangs in a bag on a tree.

I am in Longvek, a small town north of Phnom Penh that was once the capital of Cambodia after the downfall of Angkor in 1431. As I walk in the back yard of the home my friend grew up in, her family points out mango trees, aloe plants, and coconut trees. When ripe, the family walks up to the tree and snatches a mango to slice up.

Unripened mango.

Often thought of as a topical only plant, superfood aloe vera can actually be ingested.

Many kitchens in Cambodia are separate from the house. The large concrete structures to the right and in the foreground are to catch rain water for washing hands and dishes.

En route to other areas of the country, I am greeted by many food possibilities. There is freshly cut pineapple and grapefruit. I find spiked fruit, whose taste resembles a plum. Bus stops have stalls selling fried grasshopper and tarantula.

Grapefruit is larger, more grainy, and has less juice so you can eat it without making a mess.

Deep fried bugs!

Spider.

On another occasion, I get on a boat departing from Phnom Penh and travel to an island in the Mekong river. Unaware that the party I am attending consists of an entire day of cooking, I think the meal is done after the first course. To my surprise, at the end of the day, I find my belly full of meals five times over. There was an appetizer, first wave of lunch, second wave of lunch, beer, several servings of fruit, another lunch, and finally dinner. But wait; there’s still dessert! Next a whole fish is on my plate!

We laugh and joke about how full I am, and someone taunts me with a chicken foot.

Chicken foot.

Cooking chicken curry below a house on stilts. Many Khmer homes have stilts, which allows for a cool sun-shaded area to hang out under.

Course number 3!

Lemongrass is a palatable flavor to add when cooking meat and vegetables. We ate this meal, sitting on a multi-colored mat, on the floor in Longvek.

Cambodian markets are full of fresh organic produce. I spot a few products that you wouldn’t typically see in a U.S. market, such as snake and turtle eggs. I try sweet palm juice and rice paper desserts, full of soybean with sugar and spices mixed together to sprinkle on top.

Russian Market in Phnom Penh, which also has goods, such as clothing and jewelry. The market gets its name from foreigners because the large expat Russian population shopped there in the 1980’s.

Turtle eggs and meat resting on whole turtles.

Snake at the Russian Market.

Market in Longvek, Cambodia.

Fresh greens.

Pineapple in a bag makes for a healthy snack on a beach walk.

I picked this coconut off the ground around the corner from a fishing village in Sihanoukville. With no knife, I sought out sharp rocks and began striking the coconut on the jagged edge. Slowly but surely, I was able to peel back the outer skin and eventually crack it open.

Unique fruit on a beach in the Gulf of Thailand.

I made a new friend at Preah Khan temple in Siem Reap. The food-mustached little man was ready to enjoy his snack while playing in the sand.

Prior to entering Ta Som temple, I watched this woman as she cut open palm fruit and then I sampled the sugary fruit.

When traveling in Cambodia, get out and try new foods. There is something for every taste bud. Keep your eye out for roadside fruit trees. Some great fruits to try are mangosteen, lychee, jackfruit, longan, and rambutan.

Take time to watch as fruit is being cut in front of you. I was shocked at how much work went into cutting some of the fruit. It reaped little reward for the work put in. By taking time to interact with locals you may gain a better understanding of Cambodian daily life.

With fertile land, you can find a variety of tropical plants to incorporate into your travel diet in Cambodia. Rice is a staple food at most meals. If you’re dining at a restaurant, try Khmer speciality dishes, such as rice porridge, Amok trey, and Lok Lak. Top off the meal with Kampot pepper, derived from Kampot province, which has been grown in Cambodia since at least the 13th century.

What’s your favorite Southeast Asian meal?

 

 

 

 

20 Things You Should Know Before Traveling To Phnom Penh

After 26 hours of flying, I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. One piece of luggage was missing. Four days later, I succumbed to the fact that it was probably gone for good.

The reason I hoped the luggage would arrive wasn’t because of the clothing and accessories inside (I had been combing my hair with my fingers instead of a real brush), but rather to access a gift I had brought for my friend’s mother.

I asked my friend what a good replacement gift would be. Her answer: a slab of beef.

In Cambodia, beef is very expensive. Chicken and fish are more affordable. We stopped off on the side of the road after a two-day excursion in Longvek, a countryside village about an hour north of the capital.

There was a meat stand located at an outdoor food market. A woman sat on the table with the meat, slicing fat away. Next to her were various animal parts. I could make out a hoof, ear, and liver. The rest was to be determined. Her colleague took on the duty of weighing the meat, bagging it, and handling the money.

I took my bag of meat into the vehicle driving us back to Phnom Penh. The car had obviously been transported from another country, as the steering wheel was on the right side, rather than the left.

Cambodians drive on the same side of the road as we do in the United States, however, there aren’t many regulations when it comes to vehicles. If there are, no one follows them. You can buy a car made in Australia or the UK, like our driver had. However, the drawback for him was the inconvenience of having to lean across the car to pay tolls.

Crossing the street in Cambodia is a death-defying challenge. If you ever have to drive yourself, remember to think and act like a Cambodian driver. This requires ignoring the lines separating lanes and expecting to be cut off. Also, if you have more than one person in your group, no need to all purchase vehicles. Look around and you will see entire families riding on a motorcycle. If they can do it, you can too. Although, I wouldn’t recommend driving at all. On another note, if you are Cambodian and own a car, it is to be parked inside your living room at night for safe keeping.

When we arrived back in Phnom Penh, I learned my luggage had been found! An hour later, her mother had a framed photo of her daughter, which she placed inside the expertly carved wooden bookcase.

Woodcarvings are gorgeous in Cambodia. If you are planning on purchasing an expensive gift, you might consider one of the intricately carved pieces of furniture.

Chronologically speaking, my first day actually began with a trip to a maternity hospital. My friend’s sister had just had her first baby the day before our arrival. I felt lucky to experience this event. Over the next few days, I had a crash course in Cambodian culture.

Overall, within the first week, I learned:

1. Driving rules are to ignore driving rules; except red lights.

2. You can eat a large meal for under $1.00, or 4,000 riel, if you buy it from a street vendor.

3. Cambodian weddings typically last three days.

4. Weddings venues are always set up in front of the bride’s home.

5. If you only need a small amount of gas for your motorcycle, look for Pepsi, Fanta, or Coca Cola bottles on the side of the road.

6. Massages are $6.00-12.00. (a.k.a get one everyday.)

7. Angkor beer is the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage in the country.

8. When walking across the street, step into the road, and make your presence known. Vehicles will slow down for you, but never stop. You should stop in the middle of the road to let fast cars pass by and then continue on your journey to the other side.

9. Cambodians carve beautiful wood furniture.

10. Meat, especially beef, is a good gift.

11. Always negotiate prices; what often starts at 5 becomes 3.

12. Apsara dance is a slow Khmer classical dance with sinuous hand gestures that tell mythical or religious stories.

13. Water is not drinkable. Cambodians boil water, refrigerate, then drink. You can buy bottled water. Make sure the cap is sealed.

14. If you want to clean your clothes, you can throw them in a large bucket, add water and soap, and let it sit. Then, as if making wine and stomping on grapes, get inside the bucket and start stomping. Proceed to rub clothing against each other, squeeze, and let hang dry.

15. Chicken and fish are more affordable.

16. Breakfast=soup. For example, congee, or rice porridge, mixed with fish and blood pudding is a common choice. Another is beef noodle soup with hot chili peppers, vegetables, and banana blossom shavings.

17. Iced coffee is made with condensed milk and comes with an handy plastic carrier you can place around your wrist.

18. You can pay in US dollars, riel, or a combination of the two.

19. Take your hat off as a sign of respect when in the presence of a monk.

20. Use and eat every part of an animal. Eyeballs and all.

My first week was filled with learning Cambodian phrases, a trip to the maternity ward, and a new diet of noodle soup, rice, and meat. I learned that crossing the street is never a casual thing. I attended an engagement party that was set up as a mock wedding. I was advised that price negotiation is expected. Upon closer inspection of soda bottles, I realized it was gasoline. Overall, it was a week of new experiences!

 

Video Blog: Three Weeks In Cambodia

I’m back from Cambodia! Tropical beaches, magnificent waterfalls, and ancient temples have occupied my days during the past three weeks. I’ve created a video, which gives you a glimpse into Cambodian life and a sneak peek at upcoming blog posts.

There’s a little bit of everything in the video: my motorcycle ride to Tatai Waterfall, monkeys, chickens, and more.

Look out for posts on Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Koh Kong, and the countryside village of Longvek.

Follow me on Instagram @alid516 and Twitter @travelingalison to see photos from the trip!