Summertime Destinations: Martha’s Vineyard

Celebrities, musicians, and presidents’ vacation on an island off the coast of Massachusetts, only accessible by boat and air. Among the long list of well known vacationers are President Obama, the Clintons, Carly Simon, James Taylor, Diane Sawyer, and Ted Danson. The late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Ted Kennedy, and Walter Cronkite all had ties to the Vineyard as well.

DSC00991
Driftwood Flower Box

Beautiful beaches, restaurants, and nature trails line the island. Locally made artisan goods are sold at outdoor flea markets. Farm fresh eggs and local produce can be found at road-side stands. Combined, the six towns that make up Martha’s Vineyard have a lot to offer.

293224_10100298261857732_254965233_n
Dog Boarding

Originally populated by the Wampanoag American Indian tribe, the Vineyard is now known as an affluent summer destination. Martha’s Vineyard was the name given to a small island south of the main island in 1602 by English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold. Later, the main island took the name Martha’s Vineyard. Martha is thought to have been Gosnold’s mother-in-law or his second child.

Great Rock Bite
Great Rock Bight

English settlers joined the Wampanoag tribe in populating the island when Thomas Mayhew purchased the island from English “owners”, along with neighboring Nantucket and the Elizabeth Islands. Mayhew honored the native’s land rights and therefore they were friendly with one another.

Martha’s Vineyard is made up of six towns; Tisbury (which includes Vineyard Haven and West Chop), West Tisbury, Oak Bluffs (incuding East Chop), Edgartown (inducing islands Chappaquidick, or “Chappy”, and Katama), Chilmark (including Menemsha), and Aquinnah (where the Wampanoag tribe is located).

Menemsha
Menemsha

Each town has a unique offering. In Oak Bluffs, where the Flying Horses Carousel is located, children can try their chance at receiving a free ride if they catch the brass ring.

Another notable feature of Oak Bluffs is the community of multicolored gingerbread cottages. The best time to enjoy the cottages is on Grand Illumination Night, when all the gingerbread houses decorate with colorful Chinese and Japanese lanterns and bands play at the Tabernacle.

Lantern in my Aunt's garden reminds me of Illumination Night.
Lantern in my Aunt’s garden, which reminds me of Illumination Night.

DSC01008

My favorite activity in Aquinnah is to walk along Moshup Beach and admire the dramatic red, orange, white, and beige clay cliffs. There is also a lighthouse to explore, fantastic views, and tribal stores.

In Chilmark, as you pass by mailboxes bearing names like “Chillhead,” you eventually find the cozy fishing village of Menemsha, where you can walk out on the jetty and take in a sunset. Chilmark also has Great Rock Bight, a preserve you can hike to get to a rocky beach with rock sculptures.

If you need a break from the beach, check out locally made goods at the flea market, which provide such treasures as sea glass necklaces or framed photographs of the island.

In the largest town, Edgartown, you can catch some waves at Katama/South Beach or do some shopping downtown.

Explore and you shall find...
Explore and you shall find…

DSC01015

DSC01016

DSC01019

Sometimes, though, it is the seclusion that makes the vineyard special. Tucked away, down a dirt road in the middle of the woods, I find my aunt and uncle’s house. Here, I can peacefully lie in a hammock, wander through their exquisite garden, or walk the back trails by a horse farm and admire a tiny pond most vacationers will never see. I can rummage through old records in their basement then dance to them in the kitchen while preparing a meal of island-grown produce.

Yes, please.
Yes, please.
Swaying Among the Trees
Among the Trees

On this particular morning, I woke up and decided to wander out the front door with a bowl to pick berries to add to my breakfast. As I approach the blackberry briar, I hear some rustling to my right. I look up to see a deer bounding from the blueberry patch into the forest.

Blueberries, blackberries, and huckleberries from the yard.
Blueberries, blackberries, and huckleberries from the yard.
Focusing on which berries to pick prior to a deer bounding past.
Focusing on which berries to pick prior to a deer bounding past.

After collecting berries, I sit on the deck with my coffee, breakfast spread, and a good book.

DSC00971
Fresh Picked From the Front Yard

There is so much more to share about the vineyard, but for now, I leave you with a list of some of my favorite beaches:

1. Best beach/pond combination (so you can have the juxtaposition of wild ocean and calm pond water): Long Point Wildlife Refuge, West Tisbury

Long Point Wildlife Refuge
Long Point Wildlife Refuge

2. Best social scene/off roading beach: Katama/South Beach, Edgartown

3. Best hiking beach: Great Rock Bight, Chilmark

304858_10100298268259902_653452263_n

4. Most scenic beach: Moshup Beach, Aquinnah

Clay Cliffs at Moshup Beach in Aquinnah
Clay Cliffs at Moshup Beach in Aquinnah
Multi-colored clay along Moshup Beach
Multi-colored clay along Moshup Beach

10537423_10102169976995592_6654733701135484895_n

5. Best Private/Most obscure rock creation beach: Lucy Vincent, Chilmark

Lucy Vincent - Chilmark resident only beach
Lucy Vincent – Chilmark resident only beach

lucy2

Interesting Rock formations on Lucy Vincent
Interesting Rock formations on Lucy Vincent

6. Best boardwalk run/bike then jump in ocean off a bridge beach: Joseph Sylvia State Beach, Oak Bluffs

7. Best lobster dinner while watching sunset beach: Menemsha Town Beach

Summertime Destinations: Wellfleet

Salty delight: my palate experiences a fresh liquid consistency that satisfies my weekend seafaring mindset. A burst of flavor comes from horseradish and cocktail sauce, which only accentuates the taste of the oyster.

I am in a town that was originally named “Port Aux Huitres,” or Oyster Port.

Oysters were collected by my friend at 3pm and on our plate by 7pm. It was nice to know, for once, how fresh my seafood was.

Atop a cliff at Lecount Hollow Beach, also referred to as Maguire's Landing.
Atop a cliff at Lecount Hollow Beach, also referred to as Maguire’s Landing.

Port Aux Huitres is now called Wellfleet, which either comes from “Whale Fleet”, a nod to the prominence of whaling during the time of renaming, or, as others dispute, it refers to a popular English brand of oysters.

Indeed, Wellfleet has a history of many names. Upon being settled in the 1650’s and encompassing more land, including, Eastham, it was called “Billingsgate”, after a fish market in East London.

In my blog post, Montréal; a dual post on Burlington,Vermont and Montreal, I mention French explorer Samuel de Champlain for whom Lake Champlain is named. Champlain also discovered Wellfleet in 1606. It wasn’t settled until the 1650’s.

DSC01122
Hiking the Bay side of Wellfleet

This coastal town is nestled in the hook, or “elbow” of Massachusetts. Wellfleet is home to fishermen, artists, and frequented by some well-known leftist intellectuals, such as Noam Chomsky; “father of modern linguistics” and political commentator, and Howard Zinn; historian and author of A People’s History of the United States of America.

Some young locals I’ve met over the years who live in Wellfleet year round make their living in the summer months and travel to exotic coastal locales in the winter, where they can keep the beach days alive and continue surfing in hot weather. When summer arrives here, droves of day-trippers and vacationers flock.

Sand Art
Sand Art

Wellfleet is roughly 70% preserved land, half of which is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, which was created by President John F. Kennedy to protect ponds, woods, and beachfront. The town is not only home to ocean, but several ponds. Beachgoers have their choice of calm or active water.

The shore stretches on for miles and has dramatic cliffs and bluffs. Low tide can be fun with tide pools available to discover aquatic life. Wave size varies by beach, even though they are along the same coast, with some better for surfing and others for calm swimming.

Cahoon Hollow Beach is dramatic in scenery, with a steep drop from the parking lot to the beach. This is the party beach of Wellfleet, with a young crowd playing water sports and volleyball. Completing your beach experience is The Beachcomber, a restaurant and bar, were you can grab a cocktail and relax at the raw bar after your swim. If you are staying in town, you can take in live music at night.

Down the road is White Crest Beach, which is less crowded and one of the best for surfing. It is also the only town-owned beach where hang gliding is allowed.

Still, further down the road lies a beach with a steep walk to the sand. LeCount Hollow, also known as Maguire’s Landing. This beach is less crowded than Cahoon Hollow, but is gorgeous, and has an ice cream truck for those who want to enjoy a sweet treat.

Shoe collection of beachgoers at LeCount's
Shoe collection of beachgoers at LeCount’s

If you’re looking for beautiful National Seashore beaches, Nauset and Marconi are nearby. Marconi Beach, in South Wellfleet, was named after Guglielmo Marconi, the Italian inventor, who, in 1903, carried out the first trans-Atlantic wireless transmission between the United States and England. The first call sign was “CC” for Cape Cod.

DSC01131

DSC01134

wellfleet1

Snap Shot:

Known for: Oysters

Best Activity: Beach

Buy local catches/Enjoy ice cream at: Mac’s Seafood

Best Nightlife: The Beachcomber

If you’re in the mood for reading more on Noam Chomsky at a local haunt in Wellfleet (i.e the town dump), check out the article below, written by Lydia Millet and published in the Columbia Journal.

Click to access Lydia%20Millet.pdf

DSC01116