Khmer Food

Cambodian food is indicative of a country with expansive rice fields, a plethora of fruit trees, and shores bursting with fish. There are delicious soups with shrimp, coconut-based waffles, and curried chicken. Fresh fish caught straight from rivers and oceans are in the market day of catch. On occasion, fish is biked to your front door by a local fisherman, looking to sell.

Just-purchased fish hangs in a bag on a tree.

I am in Longvek, a small town north of Phnom Penh that was once the capital of Cambodia after the downfall of Angkor in 1431. As I walk in the back yard of the home my friend grew up in, her family points out mango trees, aloe plants, and coconut trees. When ripe, the family walks up to the tree and snatches a mango to slice up.

Unripened mango.

Often thought of as a topical only plant, superfood aloe vera can actually be ingested.

Many kitchens in Cambodia are separate from the house. The large concrete structures to the right and in the foreground are to catch rain water for washing hands and dishes.

En route to other areas of the country, I am greeted by many food possibilities. There is freshly cut pineapple and grapefruit. I find spiked fruit, whose taste resembles a plum. Bus stops have stalls selling fried grasshopper and tarantula.

Grapefruit is larger, more grainy, and has less juice so you can eat it without making a mess.

Deep fried bugs!

Spider.

On another occasion, I get on a boat departing from Phnom Penh and travel to an island in the Mekong river. Unaware that the party I am attending consists of an entire day of cooking, I think the meal is done after the first course. To my surprise, at the end of the day, I find my belly full of meals five times over. There was an appetizer, first wave of lunch, second wave of lunch, beer, several servings of fruit, another lunch, and finally dinner. But wait; there’s still dessert! Next a whole fish is on my plate!

We laugh and joke about how full I am, and someone taunts me with a chicken foot.

Chicken foot.

Cooking chicken curry below a house on stilts. Many Khmer homes have stilts, which allows for a cool sun-shaded area to hang out under.

Course number 3!

Lemongrass is a palatable flavor to add when cooking meat and vegetables. We ate this meal, sitting on a multi-colored mat, on the floor in Longvek.

Cambodian markets are full of fresh organic produce. I spot a few products that you wouldn’t typically see in a U.S. market, such as snake and turtle eggs. I try sweet palm juice and rice paper desserts, full of soybean with sugar and spices mixed together to sprinkle on top.

Russian Market in Phnom Penh, which also has goods, such as clothing and jewelry. The market gets its name from foreigners because the large expat Russian population shopped there in the 1980’s.

Turtle eggs and meat resting on whole turtles.

Snake at the Russian Market.

Market in Longvek, Cambodia.

Fresh greens.

Pineapple in a bag makes for a healthy snack on a beach walk.

I picked this coconut off the ground around the corner from a fishing village in Sihanoukville. With no knife, I sought out sharp rocks and began striking the coconut on the jagged edge. Slowly but surely, I was able to peel back the outer skin and eventually crack it open.

Unique fruit on a beach in the Gulf of Thailand.

I made a new friend at Preah Khan temple in Siem Reap. The food-mustached little man was ready to enjoy his snack while playing in the sand.

Prior to entering Ta Som temple, I watched this woman as she cut open palm fruit and then I sampled the sugary fruit.

When traveling in Cambodia, get out and try new foods. There is something for every taste bud. Keep your eye out for roadside fruit trees. Some great fruits to try are mangosteen, lychee, jackfruit, longan, and rambutan.

Take time to watch as fruit is being cut in front of you. I was shocked at how much work went into cutting some of the fruit. It reaped little reward for the work put in. By taking time to interact with locals you may gain a better understanding of Cambodian daily life.

With fertile land, you can find a variety of tropical plants to incorporate into your travel diet in Cambodia. Rice is a staple food at most meals. If you’re dining at a restaurant, try Khmer speciality dishes, such as rice porridge, Amok trey, and Lok Lak. Top off the meal with Kampot pepper, derived from Kampot province, which has been grown in Cambodia since at least the 13th century.

What’s your favorite Southeast Asian meal?

 

 

 

 

20 Things You Should Know Before Traveling To Phnom Penh

After 26 hours of flying, I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. One piece of luggage was missing. Four days later, I succumbed to the fact that it was probably gone for good.

The reason I hoped the luggage would arrive wasn’t because of the clothing and accessories inside (I had been combing my hair with my fingers instead of a real brush), but rather to access a gift I had brought for my friend’s mother.

I asked my friend what a good replacement gift would be. Her answer: a slab of beef.

In Cambodia, beef is very expensive. Chicken and fish are more affordable. We stopped off on the side of the road after a two-day excursion in Longvek, a countryside village about an hour north of the capital.

There was a meat stand located at an outdoor food market. A woman sat on the table with the meat, slicing fat away. Next to her were various animal parts. I could make out a hoof, ear, and liver. The rest was to be determined. Her colleague took on the duty of weighing the meat, bagging it, and handling the money.

I took my bag of meat into the vehicle driving us back to Phnom Penh. The car had obviously been transported from another country, as the steering wheel was on the right side, rather than the left.

Cambodians drive on the same side of the road as we do in the United States, however, there aren’t many regulations when it comes to vehicles. If there are, no one follows them. You can buy a car made in Australia or the UK, like our driver had. However, the drawback for him was the inconvenience of having to lean across the car to pay tolls.

Crossing the street in Cambodia is a death-defying challenge. If you ever have to drive yourself, remember to think and act like a Cambodian driver. This requires ignoring the lines separating lanes and expecting to be cut off. Also, if you have more than one person in your group, no need to all purchase vehicles. Look around and you will see entire families riding on a motorcycle. If they can do it, you can too. Although, I wouldn’t recommend driving at all. On another note, if you are Cambodian and own a car, it is to be parked inside your living room at night for safe keeping.

When we arrived back in Phnom Penh, I learned my luggage had been found! An hour later, her mother had a framed photo of her daughter, which she placed inside the expertly carved wooden bookcase.

Woodcarvings are gorgeous in Cambodia. If you are planning on purchasing an expensive gift, you might consider one of the intricately carved pieces of furniture.

Chronologically speaking, my first day actually began with a trip to a maternity hospital. My friend’s sister had just had her first baby the day before our arrival. I felt lucky to experience this event. Over the next few days, I had a crash course in Cambodian culture.

Overall, within the first week, I learned:

1. Driving rules are to ignore driving rules; except red lights.

2. You can eat a large meal for under $1.00, or 4,000 riel, if you buy it from a street vendor.

3. Cambodian weddings typically last three days.

4. Weddings venues are always set up in front of the bride’s home.

5. If you only need a small amount of gas for your motorcycle, look for Pepsi, Fanta, or Coca Cola bottles on the side of the road.

6. Massages are $6.00-12.00. (a.k.a get one everyday.)

7. Angkor beer is the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage in the country.

8. When walking across the street, step into the road, and make your presence known. Vehicles will slow down for you, but never stop. You should stop in the middle of the road to let fast cars pass by and then continue on your journey to the other side.

9. Cambodians carve beautiful wood furniture.

10. Meat, especially beef, is a good gift.

11. Always negotiate prices; what often starts at 5 becomes 3.

12. Apsara dance is a slow Khmer classical dance with sinuous hand gestures that tell mythical or religious stories.

13. Water is not drinkable. Cambodians boil water, refrigerate, then drink. You can buy bottled water. Make sure the cap is sealed.

14. If you want to clean your clothes, you can throw them in a large bucket, add water and soap, and let it sit. Then, as if making wine and stomping on grapes, get inside the bucket and start stomping. Proceed to rub clothing against each other, squeeze, and let hang dry.

15. Chicken and fish are more affordable.

16. Breakfast=soup. For example, congee, or rice porridge, mixed with fish and blood pudding is a common choice. Another is beef noodle soup with hot chili peppers, vegetables, and banana blossom shavings.

17. Iced coffee is made with condensed milk and comes with an handy plastic carrier you can place around your wrist.

18. You can pay in US dollars, riel, or a combination of the two.

19. Take your hat off as a sign of respect when in the presence of a monk.

20. Use and eat every part of an animal. Eyeballs and all.

My first week was filled with learning Cambodian phrases, a trip to the maternity ward, and a new diet of noodle soup, rice, and meat. I learned that crossing the street is never a casual thing. I attended an engagement party that was set up as a mock wedding. I was advised that price negotiation is expected. Upon closer inspection of soda bottles, I realized it was gasoline. Overall, it was a week of new experiences!

 

Video Blog: Three Weeks In Cambodia

I’m back from Cambodia! Tropical beaches, magnificent waterfalls, and ancient temples have occupied my days during the past three weeks. I’ve created a video, which gives you a glimpse into Cambodian life and a sneak peek at upcoming blog posts.

There’s a little bit of everything in the video: my motorcycle ride to Tatai Waterfall, monkeys, chickens, and more.

Look out for posts on Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Koh Kong, and the countryside village of Longvek.

Follow me on Instagram @alid516 and Twitter @travelingalison to see photos from the trip!

21 Activities To Try on the Charles River

The Charles River in Boston, Massachusetts is eighty miles long and flows through twenty-three communities. It is recognized around the country for it’s fantastic Independence Day celebration at the Hatch Shell, which features the Boston Pop’s concert and a fireworks display.

There are several ways to explore this beautiful river. Below is a list of twenty-one activities to try when visiting the Charles River. Whether you are living in the city or are traveling from afar, this list can help you discover fantastic views of the city. A monthly list of events follows to aid in planning for upcoming events.

Evening Sets in Over Boston

21 Activities To Try On The Charles

1) Running

2) Rowing

3) Cycling

4) Slacklining

5) Group Exercise Classes (Free Zumba, CrossFit, yoga, and running)

Peering from Behind a Weeping Willow

6) Kayaking

7) Sailing

8) Boating

9) Duck Tour

10) Stand Up Paddling (SUP)

Boston Sunset

11) Dragon Boat

12) Gondola Tour

13) Lounging on the Docks

14) Picnic

15) Ice Cream Stroll

Lily pads on the Esplanade

16) Roller Blading

17) Skateboarding

18) Skulling

19) Festival-going

20) Swimming (At own risk! For the first time in over fifty years public swimming was permitted in 2013.)

21) Hatch Shell Concert

Sunset From Cambridge

List of Events By Month

April

• Earth Day: Charles River Cleanup
• Charles River Watershed Association’s Run of the Charles
• Recreation Sundays (Memorial Drive closes the road for recreation.)

May

• March of Dimes March for Babies
• Esplanade 5k Dash
• Recreation Sundays

Lying on the Esplanade

June

• Charles River Annual Swim
• Hong Kong Boston Dragon Boat Festival
• AIDS Walk & 5K Run
• Children’s Hospital Walk
• Recreation Sundays

Dragon Boat Festival

July

• Fourth of July Concert
• WBZ Free Friday Flicks
• Earthfest
• Free Zumba
• Recreation Sundays
• Free Sunset Yoga
• Free CrossFit
• Free Run Club

City Lights Reflecting on the River

August

• Recreation Sundays

Sailing

September

• Boston Heart Walk
• Recreation Sundays

MIT Sailing Pavilion

October

• Head of the Charles
• 5k Walk for Diabetes
• Breast Cancer Walk
• Recreation Sundays
• Walk for Hunger

Towers along Memorial Drive

November

• Recreation Sundays

The Charles River has a plethora of fun activities to take advantage of, especially in warmer months. Whatever your favorite activity, use this guide to try something new, such as joining a walk for a good cause or slacklining on the esplanade. If there is an activity or event I missed, please comment below!

Happy New Year!

 

 

Gastronomies & Graffiti-Your Self-Guided Graffiti and Restaurant Walking Tour Around Cambridge

Cambridge is a hub of learning with Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Harvard University, and Leslie College among others. It has a plethora of unique coffee shops, boutique stores, bars, and music venues. Several museums and art galleries offer art and science exhibitions.

If you’re planning a trip to Cambridge, a great way to orient yourself to the city is with a self-guided graffiti walking tour. This walking tour allows you to view public art, take in the architecture of top universities, and sample some uniquely decorated restaurants along the way.

As perspectives change so does public art. Street art is fleeting; it might be there one day and gone the next. It is an expression of its creator in that moment. Sometimes it may be commissioned by a city to enhance beauty. It might also be strategically placed in order to hide ugly, yet vital components of the city.

Graffiti has gone from being viewed as vandalism, to sometimes activism, and often art. Over the years, street art has become mainstream. Museums have commissioned urban artists. Large companies have used it as means for guerrilla marketing. Cities have begun giving tours of graffitiscapes.

I find graffiti most pleasing when the artist makes a conscious choice to incorporate the surrounding environment into their designs. Strategic placement in public spaces makes for smart art. Utilizing tree branches, bodies of water, or shadows are a few ways an artist might incorporate already existing environmental elements into their art. In these cases, the artist’s thought process can truly be seen.

The Route

190 Massachusetts Ave.>Right on Windsor St.>Left on State St.>State St. and Mass. Ave. merge>Continue on Mass. Ave.>Mass. Ave. & Norfolk St.>Mass Ave. & Pearl St.>Right on Modica Way>Left on Bishop Allen Dr.>Left on Prospect St.>Right on Mass. Ave.

Cambridge is in no shortage of interesting public art installations. Start your morning on Massachusetts Ave., the main drag through Cambridge, by enjoying coffee at Flour Bakery in Central Sq. Everything is baked in-house. It draws students, morning commuters, and nearby working professionals. Notice the interesting architecture of the building across the street. If you’re a wine aficionado, stop next door at Central Bottle.

Proceed to view your first graffiti artwork. Walking left out of the coffee shop, cross Massachusetts Ave. and take a right down Windsor Street. Turn left on State Street. You will find graffiti on a loading dock door to the left, as pictured below.

Several feet ahead, the street merges back with Mass. Ave. Where the two roads meet, look to the right. There are three loading dock doors filled with colorful shapes and spiraling graffiti. Take note that MIT Museum is a few feet up the road should you wish to visit on another day.

Continue walking on Mass. Ave. You are headed away from the Charles River and MIT, going toward the center of Central Sq. There is a good chance you will stumble upon musicians playing or a festival happening in Lafayette Sq. Here, you will also see a small, yet wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot, Café Luna. On weekends, this café is busting out onto the sidewalk with an overflow of people waiting for brunch.

When you reach Norfolk Street, admire the painted mural.

Once, you are finished marveling at this piece, cross the street, and walk to the colorful corner nightclub and restaurant, the Middle East. This can be found at the intersection of Mass. Ave. and Pearl St. Take a look at the Middle East’s mural, located on the side of the building. If you like live music, check out the line-up for ZuZu and the Middle East’s upstairs and downstairs music venues.

Prepare yourself for the pinnacle of graffiti viewing. Cross Mass. Ave. once more and dodge down the alley to the right of Central Kitchen, Modica Way. Take your time walking through the ever-changing artwork. Keep in mind that next to Central Kitchen is a bar without a sign. I recommend this bar, Brick & Mortar, as a good place to start your evening. It has a moody vibe created from lighting and interior design.

Modica Way leads to a parking lot with, you guessed it, more graffiti. Look to your left to view two excellent artscapes of Asian women on Bao Nation’s building. One woman is in traditional Asian dress with a dramatic red backdrop. The other lures you into Bao Nation. Look up to the rooftop, which is covered in an interesting assortment of graffiti. Walk directly in the parking lot and look at the side of H Mart, an Asian grocery store. You will find a community mural.

The parking lot exits onto Bishop Allen Dr. Turn left and swing around to the other side of H Mart to find another painting. Continue on Bishop Allen Dr. Turn left on Prospect St. Take note of The Field, a pub you may want to visit later. This bar has a laid back vibe and a back patio open on warm nights.

Prospect St. leads you back to Mass. Ave., where you will find a four-way intersection. The Central Square T Stop, or subway, is located here should you need it at a later date. Turn right on Mass. Ave.

If you are ready for some more food, stop in 1369 Coffee Shop. Awarded Best of Boston in 2013, this coffee shop has rotating art on the walls and an inviting atmosphere full of creatives typing away on their laptops. The delicious coffee, fresh baked cookies, and homemade soups don’t hurt either.

If it’s lunchtime, and you are a health food fanatic, go to Life Alive. Life Alive is my favorite lunchtime spot because of the unique food combinations, amazing smoothies, and earthy interior décor. The self-described “urban oasis & organic café” has won many Best of Boston awards. They have music on Thursdays and Fridays.

After an energizing shot of wheatgrass, you will be raring to go. Take a right when exiting either 1369 or Life Alive. You are headed to Harvard Sq.

Continue your trek up Mass. Ave., stopping in boutiques and taking in the mix of characters in this area. You will soon pass by a local bar, the People’s Republic. You are now in between Central and Harvard Squares. Note the Plow & Stars bar as well, which offers local bands up close and personal. If you duck in here, you just might find my brother’s band, Crooked Mirror, playing.

You will soon approach colorful graffiti splashed with words summing up the area: “technology,” “family, and “community.”

About one block up, on the opposite side of the street, is a mural, which brings a bit of nature into the city with black and white tree branches.

Continue walking straight to locate great boutique shops. You are now in Harvard Square. You may want to check to see if there are any interesting seminars going on, shop, and wander through Harvard Yard to look at the architecture.

Overall, this walking tour allows you to become better oriented to the city. You can slow down and appreciate the nuances and explore the creativity of the city’s residents. Harvard is full of shopping and beautiful architecture. Central Square keeps things real, adding a bit of grit and has a great music scene. MIT leads into the technology hub of Kendall Sq.

Be sure to share any updated artwork you come across on your walk by posting below!

 

Gritty Chic: A Non-Traditional Family Vacation at CMJ Music Marathon

My father, brother, and I have an annual vacation to New York City every October. My brother, Executive Director by day and musician by night, suggested one year we go see a band play. That night we found out the band was playing as part of a weeklong music festival that takes place at several music venues across the city. Since then, we plan our trip around CMJ Music Marathon.

CMJ Music Marathon, a music festival and convention, is run by CMJ Holdings Corp., a music events and online media company. Besides organizing the festival, they run CMJ.com. They also publish a weekly online magazine CMJ New Music Report, which features interviews and reviews of well-established musicians and unsigned bands.

Methyl Ethel’s Saturday set at Baby’s All Right in Brooklyn.

I am drawn to bands just gaining traction because shows are more intimate. Also, at five foot two, I have a better chance of actually seeing the the stage at smaller shows. Somehow at large venues six-foot tall people always find their way in front of me. Another bonus of smaller shows is room to dance!

Even though the festival spans over the course of a week, we always catch the tail end from Friday to Sunday. Over the years we have stayed in several areas of the city. Each year we have moved closer to the music. The majority of the shows are at venues in the Lower East Side (LES) and in Brooklyn. This year we chose to be right in the thick of it; walking distance to music venues that usually have great CMJ showcases each year.

Artwork on a building on Rivington Street in the Lower East Side.

The Lower East Side is a gritty chic neighborhood—a little sketchy but artistic, trendy, and historic with a great bar and restaurant scene. It might be described as a hipster party area. Located in southeast Manhattan, the boundaries run from Canal to Houston Streets and the East River to Bowery St. Main drags include Bowery, Delancey, Ludlow, and East Houston Streets.

LES is bordered by Chinatown, NoLita, and the East Village. It is historically a working-class immigrant neighborhood filled with Irish, Italians, Polish, Ukranians, and Germans. It was once known as Little Germany because of the sheer number of Germans living in the area outnumbered other ethnic groups. The area is also well known for having a large Jewish population.

In the 2000’s gentrification spread from the East Village into the Lower East Side. The area is now lined with uniquely decorated boutiques, coffee shops, several art galleries, and trendy bars.

If you like live music and are visiting LES, I suggest checking who is playing the following venues:

• Pianos
• Arlene’s Grocery
• Cake Shop
• Bowery Ballroom
• Mercury Lounge
• The Delancey
• Bowery Electric
• The Living Room
• Rockwood Music Hall 

We stayed on Rivington Street in the thick of it all. The first morning I set out on my own before my family woke up. I found a great coffee shop, Black Cat LES, where I could read TIME magazine’s latest issue while lingering over coffee. It had eclectic décor with old clocks, mismatched couches and chairs, and lots of artwork on the walls. It doubles as a comedy club and serves beer. I opted to try their homemade oatmeal, which did not disappoint with its creamy consistency topped with fresh fruit. As I read, there was a group of people filming what appeared to be a documentary.

Leisure morning at Black Cat LES, a coffee shop on Rivington Street with great homemade oatmeal.

Later that morning my family and I grabbed coffee at an Italian-style coffee shop, Café Vita. In true Italian form, there were no chairs and everyone stood to drink their coffee.

We walked down to the East River and looked out past the Williamsburg Bridge toward our next destination, Brooklyn. Baby’s All Right was having a day party chock full of great bands with free everything: entry, beer (first keg, at least), sunglasses, and lip balm.

View of the Williamsburg Bridge on the East River.

On our first night, we also went over the bridge to The Wick in Bushwick. This music venue is fantastic—open space, high ceilings, and $4 beer.

Below I have compiled links to songs from bands we liked at CMJ.

• Methyl Ethel

https://soundcloud.com/methylethel/lagotto-romagnolo

https://soundcloud.com/methylethel/rogues

https://soundcloud.com/methylethel/twilight-driving

• Michael Rault

https://soundcloud.com/michael-rault/lost-something

https://soundcloud.com/michael-rault/sets/ma-me-o

https://soundcloud.com/michael-rault/i-dont-need-no-help-gettin

https://soundcloud.com/michael-rault/the-things-you-said

• Mothers

https://soundcloud.com/mothers-1/no-crying-in-baseball

https://soundcloud.com/mothers-1/it-hurts-until-it-doesnt-2

https://soundcloud.com/mothers-1/fat-chance-live

https://soundcloud.com/mothers-1/nothing-live

https://soundcloud.com/mothers-1/mother-and-wife

• Sam Cohen

https://soundcloud.com/easysoundrecordingco/sam-cohen-kepler62

https://soundcloud.com/easysoundrecordingco/sets/sam-cohen-cool-it

https://soundcloud.com/easysoundrecordingco/01-let-the-mountain-come-to

• The Albumn Leaf

https://soundcloud.com/the-album-leaf/descent

• Gramma’s Boyfriend

https://soundcloud.com/graveface/i-live-my-broken-dreams

https://soundcloud.com/graveface/forget-the-stones

Check out my brother’s band, Crooked Mirror.

On our way back to Boston we stopped off in New Haven, CT for lunch. We took the advice of a friend and ate at a hybrid bookstore/cafe called Atticus. Yale University Art Gallery is across the street. Entry is free. The modern and contemporary section was great.

Who is your favorite band listed above?

What is your favorite music venue in New York City?

Is there an area of the city you find yourself going to over and over again?

A Mountaintop to Ourselves (Acadia National Park, Maine)

I squinted my eyes, looking hard for a view, but on top of Mt. Sargent (1,373 feet) there was no view to be seen. It was late morning and the mountain was hidden in clouds. Even though there wasn’t a view, it was worth the time we spent climbing. During the hike we had squeezed through a cave and seen the terrain change from lush greenery to minimal mountain shrubbery scattered between granite rocks.

Entering cave on Mt. Sargent

Exiting cave on Mt. Sargent

We woke up in the dark that morning to see the sun rise on the highest peak in Acadia so having no view was okay with us since we had already seen one.

Sunrise from Mt. Cadillac, highest peak in Acadia National Park

On a clear day on top of Mt. Sargent you can see Somes Sound, Mt. Cadillac, the Bubbles, Eagle Lake, and Fisherman’s Bay. As I looked around, it seemed as if I was on another planet; baron land, bare hills, and uneven terrain were carved out of rock.

We had never had an entire mountaintop to ourselves. The majority of peaks we had been to had roads leading up to the top with parking lots and manmade platforms built for viewing. In contrast, Mt. Sargent was entirely natural: the only manmade alteration to the landscape was a collection of rocks piled high, leading to a sign identifying that location as the top of the mountain. Untouched mountaintops are like looking back in history, seeing what others saw hundreds of year’s prior.

My cousins and I selected Mt. Sargent to climb for a few reasons. First, it is less traveled since there is no road leading to the top. Second, it is the highest peak in Acadia after Mt. Cadillac. Finally, the foot of the mountain is literally in my cousin’s backyard. Acadia National Park begins where her lawn meets the tree line.

During this long weekend in Maine we also explored the area by bike. We rode to Northeast and Seal Harbors, walked around Jordan Pond, and later meandered through the streets of Bar Harbor.

Cycling along Somes Sound

We started our bike ride from the bottom of Mt. Sargent, continued along Somes Sound, and proceeded to Northeast Harbor where we watched boats travel in and out and fishermen crane materials off the dock into their boats.

Somes Sound

The road ahead

Fog lifting above Somes Sound

We stopped in Northeast Harbor’s visitor center where we collected maps and learned about the bus routes. We decided to continue biking to Seal Harbor Beach. Looking at the map, Seal Harbor appeared to be a good distance away, but as we biked, it wasn’t much further. It turned out to only be about a 15-minute bike, but included strenuous hills!

Northeast Harbor

As we approached Seal Harbor, it was very foggy. We picked an apple from a tree on the side of the road and looked in the other direction as we ate. A few minutes later we looked back toward the harbor and had a clear view. The thing about our entire trip was that the weather would appear to be headed for the worst, but next thing we knew, we would turn around and have a view filled with sun and blue skies!

Mysterious Seal Harbor

Roadside Apple To-Go

We continued our fitness-filled day with a walk around Jordan Pond. This walk is interesting because the trail keeps changing—from walking on dirt, to jumping from rock to rock, to walking over a bridge, and finally along a raised wooden platform. Mountains surround the Lake, which adds to its beauty.

View of the Bubbles from Jordan Pond

Walking bridge, Jordan Pond

There is a restaurant at the lake, Jordan House Pond, which is famous for it’s popovers. However, I’m told by my cousin, the restaurant was taken over by new management because the old management, the Acadia Corp., lost its renewal bid. If you want to taste the original popovers that were the main attraction of Jordan House Pond, head over to the Asticou Inn, which is now run by Acadia Corp.

Footbridge at Jordan Pond

In the evening we went to Bar Harbor to walk along the shore path. I was taken by the beauty of the islands that line the harbor. Next time, I might like to spend a day sailing from island to island.

The Shore Path, Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor has its fair share of tourist trinket shops, but if you’re interested in more artistic and unique shops I would recommend stopping in The Rock & Art Shop on Cottage Street. This shop has an eclectic mix of animal furs, snake skins, fossils, soaps, and local honey. There is even a tree frog living in an antique glass home.

Prior to traveling to Maine I looked up Park Ranger led events. The star gazing event at Sand Beach appealed to me since I am usually in the city, where clear views for gazing are hard to come by. We missed the event, but decided to create our own star gazing night. Lying in the sand and looking up into the clear night sky did not disappoint.

If you visit and are traveling south on your way home, you might like to stop off at a cute little ice cream shop in Ellsworth, Morton’s Moo Homemade Ice Cream. Trip Advisor awarded it a 2015 certificate of excellence, and as one patron puts it, “Calling this place an awesome “Ice Cream Store” doesn’t do it justice! “Interplanetary Hub of Fantastic Edible Art” comes closer, but still falls a little short.”

Overall, Acadia National Park and the surrounding area left me wanting to stay longer and explore the ins and outs of the towns and parks.

Summertime Destinations: Martha’s Vineyard

Celebrities, musicians, and presidents’ vacation on an island off the coast of Massachusetts, only accessible by boat and air. Among the long list of well known vacationers are President Obama, the Clintons, Carly Simon, James Taylor, Diane Sawyer, and Ted Danson. The late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Ted Kennedy, and Walter Cronkite all had ties to the Vineyard as well.

Driftwood Flower Box

Beautiful beaches, restaurants, and nature trails line the island. Locally made artisan goods are sold at outdoor flea markets. Farm fresh eggs and local produce can be found at road-side stands. Combined, the six towns that make up Martha’s Vineyard have a lot to offer.

Dog Boarding

Originally populated by the Wampanoag American Indian tribe, the Vineyard is now known as an affluent summer destination. Martha’s Vineyard was the name given to a small island south of the main island in 1602 by English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold. Later, the main island took the name Martha’s Vineyard. Martha is thought to have been Gosnold’s mother-in-law or his second child.

Great Rock Bight

English settlers joined the Wampanoag tribe in populating the island when Thomas Mayhew purchased the island from English “owners”, along with neighboring Nantucket and the Elizabeth Islands. Mayhew honored the native’s land rights and therefore they were friendly with one another.

Martha’s Vineyard is made up of six towns; Tisbury (which includes Vineyard Haven and West Chop), West Tisbury, Oak Bluffs (incuding East Chop), Edgartown (inducing islands Chappaquidick, or “Chappy”, and Katama), Chilmark (including Menemsha), and Aquinnah (where the Wampanoag tribe is located).

Menemsha

Each town has a unique offering. In Oak Bluffs, where the Flying Horses Carousel is located, children can try their chance at receiving a free ride if they catch the brass ring.

Another notable feature of Oak Bluffs is the community of multicolored gingerbread cottages. The best time to enjoy the cottages is on Grand Illumination Night, when all the gingerbread houses decorate with colorful Chinese and Japanese lanterns and bands play at the Tabernacle.

Lantern in my Aunt’s garden, which reminds me of Illumination Night.

My favorite activity in Aquinnah is to walk along Moshup Beach and admire the dramatic red, orange, white, and beige clay cliffs. There is also a lighthouse to explore, fantastic views, and tribal stores.

In Chilmark, as you pass by mailboxes bearing names like “Chillhead,” you eventually find the cozy fishing village of Menemsha, where you can walk out on the jetty and take in a sunset. Chilmark also has Great Rock Bight, a preserve you can hike to get to a rocky beach with rock sculptures.

If you need a break from the beach, check out locally made goods at the flea market, which provide such treasures as sea glass necklaces or framed photographs of the island.

In the largest town, Edgartown, you can catch some waves at Katama/South Beach or do some shopping downtown.

Explore and you shall find…

Sometimes, though, it is the seclusion that makes the vineyard special. Tucked away, down a dirt road in the middle of the woods, I find my aunt and uncle’s house. Here, I can peacefully lie in a hammock, wander through their exquisite garden, or walk the back trails by a horse farm and admire a tiny pond most vacationers will never see. I can rummage through old records in their basement then dance to them in the kitchen while preparing a meal of island-grown produce.

Yes, please.

Among the Trees

On this particular morning, I woke up and decided to wander out the front door with a bowl to pick berries to add to my breakfast. As I approach the blackberry briar, I hear some rustling to my right. I look up to see a deer bounding from the blueberry patch into the forest.

Blueberries, blackberries, and huckleberries from the yard.

Focusing on which berries to pick prior to a deer bounding past.

After collecting berries, I sit on the deck with my coffee, breakfast spread, and a good book.

Fresh Picked From the Front Yard

There is so much more to share about the vineyard, but for now, I leave you with a list of some of my favorite beaches:

1. Best beach/pond combination (so you can have the juxtaposition of wild ocean and calm pond water): Long Point Wildlife Refuge, West Tisbury

Long Point Wildlife Refuge

2. Best social scene/off roading beach: Katama/South Beach, Edgartown

3. Best hiking beach: Great Rock Bight, Chilmark

4. Most scenic beach: Moshup Beach, Aquinnah

Clay Cliffs at Moshup Beach in Aquinnah

Multi-colored clay along Moshup Beach

5. Best Private/Most obscure rock creation beach: Lucy Vincent, Chilmark

Lucy Vincent – Chilmark resident only beach

Interesting Rock formations on Lucy Vincent

6. Best boardwalk run/bike then jump in ocean off a bridge beach: Joseph Sylvia State Beach, Oak Bluffs

7. Best lobster dinner while watching sunset beach: Menemsha Town Beach

Summertime Destinations: Wellfleet

Salty delight: my palate experiences a fresh liquid consistency that satisfies my weekend seafaring mindset. A burst of flavor comes from horseradish and cocktail sauce, which only accentuates the taste of the oyster.

I am in a town that was originally named “Port Aux Huitres,” or Oyster Port.

Oysters were collected by my friend at 3pm and on our plate by 7pm. It was nice to know, for once, how fresh my seafood was.

Atop a cliff at Lecount Hollow Beach, also referred to as Maguire’s Landing.

Port Aux Huitres is now called Wellfleet, which either comes from “Whale Fleet”, a nod to the prominence of whaling during the time of renaming, or, as others dispute, it refers to a popular English brand of oysters.

Indeed, Wellfleet has a history of many names. Upon being settled in the 1650’s and encompassing more land, including, Eastham, it was called “Billingsgate”, after a fish market in East London.

In my blog post, Montréal; a dual post on Burlington,Vermont and Montreal, I mention French explorer Samuel de Champlain for whom Lake Champlain is named. Champlain also discovered Wellfleet in 1606. It wasn’t settled until the 1650’s.

Hiking the Bay side of Wellfleet

This coastal town is nestled in the hook, or “elbow” of Massachusetts. Wellfleet is home to fishermen, artists, and frequented by some well-known leftist intellectuals, such as Noam Chomsky; “father of modern linguistics” and political commentator, and Howard Zinn; historian and author of A People’s History of the United States of America.

Some young locals I’ve met over the years who live in Wellfleet year round make their living in the summer months and travel to exotic coastal locales in the winter, where they can keep the beach days alive and continue surfing in hot weather. When summer arrives here, droves of day-trippers and vacationers flock.

Sand Art

Wellfleet is roughly 70% preserved land, half of which is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, which was created by President John F. Kennedy to protect ponds, woods, and beachfront. The town is not only home to ocean, but several ponds. Beachgoers have their choice of calm or active water.

The shore stretches on for miles and has dramatic cliffs and bluffs. Low tide can be fun with tide pools available to discover aquatic life. Wave size varies by beach, even though they are along the same coast, with some better for surfing and others for calm swimming.

Cahoon Hollow Beach is dramatic in scenery, with a steep drop from the parking lot to the beach. This is the party beach of Wellfleet, with a young crowd playing water sports and volleyball. Completing your beach experience is The Beachcomber, a restaurant and bar, were you can grab a cocktail and relax at the raw bar after your swim. If you are staying in town, you can take in live music at night.

Down the road is White Crest Beach, which is less crowded and one of the best for surfing. It is also the only town-owned beach where hang gliding is allowed.

Still, further down the road lies a beach with a steep walk to the sand. LeCount Hollow, also known as Maguire’s Landing. This beach is less crowded than Cahoon Hollow, but is gorgeous, and has an ice cream truck for those who want to enjoy a sweet treat.

Shoe collection of beachgoers at LeCount’s

If you’re looking for beautiful National Seashore beaches, Nauset and Marconi are nearby. Marconi Beach, in South Wellfleet, was named after Guglielmo Marconi, the Italian inventor, who, in 1903, carried out the first trans-Atlantic wireless transmission between the United States and England. The first call sign was “CC” for Cape Cod.

Snap Shot:

Known for: Oysters

Best Activity: Beach

Buy local catches/Enjoy ice cream at: Mac’s Seafood

Best Nightlife: The Beachcomber

If you’re in the mood for reading more on Noam Chomsky at a local haunt in Wellfleet (i.e the town dump), check out the article below, written by Lydia Millet and published in the Columbia Journal.

Click to access Lydia%20Millet.pdf