After 26 hours of flying, I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. One piece of luggage was missing. Four days later, I succumbed to the fact that it was probably gone for good.
The reason I hoped the luggage would arrive wasn’t because of the clothing and accessories inside (I had been combing my hair with my fingers instead of a real brush), but rather to access a gift I had brought for my friend’s mother.
I asked my friend what a good replacement gift would be. Her answer: a slab of beef.
In Cambodia, beef is very expensive. Chicken and fish are more affordable. We stopped off on the side of the road after a two-day excursion in Longvek, a countryside village about an hour north of the capital.
There was a meat stand located at an outdoor food market. A woman sat on the table with the meat, slicing fat away. Next to her were various animal parts. I could make out a hoof, ear, and liver. The rest was to be determined. Her colleague took on the duty of weighing the meat, bagging it, and handling the money.
I took my bag of meat into the vehicle driving us back to Phnom Penh. The car had obviously been transported from another country, as the steering wheel was on the right side, rather than the left.
Cambodians drive on the same side of the road as we do in the United States, however, there aren’t many regulations when it comes to vehicles. If there are, no one follows them. You can buy a car made in Australia or the UK, like our driver had. However, the drawback for him was the inconvenience of having to lean across the car to pay tolls.
Crossing the street in Cambodia is a death-defying challenge. If you ever have to drive yourself, remember to think and act like a Cambodian driver. This requires ignoring the lines separating lanes and expecting to be cut off. Also, if you have more than one person in your group, no need to all purchase vehicles. Look around and you will see entire families riding on a motorcycle. If they can do it, you can too. Although, I wouldn’t recommend driving at all. On another note, if you are Cambodian and own a car, it is to be parked inside your living room at night for safe keeping.
When we arrived back in Phnom Penh, I learned my luggage had been found! An hour later, her mother had a framed photo of her daughter, which she placed inside the expertly carved wooden bookcase.
Woodcarvings are gorgeous in Cambodia. If you are planning on purchasing an expensive gift, you might consider one of the intricately carved pieces of furniture.
Chronologically speaking, my first day actually began with a trip to a maternity hospital. My friend’s sister had just had her first baby the day before our arrival. I felt lucky to experience this event. Over the next few days, I had a crash course in Cambodian culture.
Overall, within the first week, I learned:
- Driving rules are to ignore driving rules; except red lights.
- You can eat a large meal for under $1.00, or 4,000 riel, if you buy it from a street vendor.
- Cambodian weddings typically last three days.
- Weddings venues are always set up in front of the bride’s home.
- If you only need a small amount of gas for your motorcycle, look for Pepsi, Fanta, or Coca Cola bottles on the side of the road.
- Massages are $6.00-12.00. (a.k.a get one everyday.)
- Angkor beer is the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage in the country.
- When walking across the street, step into the road, and make your presence known. Vehicles will slow down for you, but never stop. You should stop in the middle of the road to let fast cars pass by and then continue on your journey to the other side.
- Cambodians carve beautiful wood furniture.
- Meat, especially beef, is a good gift.
- Always negotiate prices; what often starts at 5 becomes 3.
- Apsara dance is a slow Khmer classical dance with sinuous hand gestures that tell mythical or religious stories.
- Water is not drinkable. Cambodians boil water, refrigerate, then drink. You can buy bottled water. Make sure the cap is sealed.
- If you want to clean your clothes, you can throw them in a large bucket, add water and soap, and let it sit. Then, as if making wine and stomping on grapes, get inside the bucket and start stomping. Proceed to rub clothing against each other, squeeze, and let hang dry.
- Chicken and fish are more affordable.
- Breakfast=soup. For example, congee, or rice porridge, mixed with fish and blood pudding is a common choice. Another is beef noodle soup with hot chili peppers, vegetables, and banana blossom shavings.
- Iced coffee is made with condensed milk and comes with an handy plastic carrier you can place around your wrist.
- You can pay in US dollars, riel, or a combination of the two.
- Take your hat off as a sign of respect when in the presence of a monk.
- Use and eat every part of an animal. Eyeballs and all.
My first week was filled with learning Cambodian phrases, a trip to the maternity ward, and a new diet of noodle soup, rice, and meat. I learned that crossing the street is never a casual thing. I attended an engagement party that was set up as a mock wedding. I was advised that price negotiation is expected. Upon closer inspection of soda bottles, I realized it was gasoline. Overall, it was a week of new experiences!
Travels With Alison 