Quintana Roo, Mexico

The palm tree shadows showed as designs on my legs. The dry sandy path leading me to the cenote left white specs of sand on my sandal-laden feet. The surrounding area was a swamp-like forest.

Our destination was a cenote, a natural pool of water that is caused by collapsed bedrock thereby exposing ground water from beneath.

My friend and I were told the cenote was closed. It was our last day in Mexico so that wouldn’t do. We convinced the gatekeepers to let us in early so we could meet back up with our fellow bachelorette-celebrating friends to catch out flight.

As we reached the mangrove-surrounded cenote, we saw we were not alone. Three locals, two men and a woman, were also enjoying an early morning swim. The men sat on a low hanging tree branch, surrounding a cooler of beer.

My eyes fell on the woman who was fully submerged in the water. She seemed out of place, fully clothed in jeans and a long sleeve shirt instead of a bathing suit.

She looked on curiously as we debated whether to jump in.

Our question was whether there was anything in the depths of the dark water that might try to eat us. The woman appeared carefree. I put my trust in her confidence and followed suit by jumping in.

A few joint cannonball sessions and we were taking photographs together.

Cannonballing into the mangrove-surrounded cenote.

The gatekeeper joined…

Five days earlier, seven of us had met at the Cancun airport to celebrate our friend’s last days of singledom. It was my first time in Mexico and a much-anticipated trip after another New England winter.

Our first stop was Playa del Carmen, a seaside city in the Gulf of Mexico, approximately thirty minutes from the Cancun airport. The stretch of beach is lined with restaurants and hotels. The city has lots of nightlife options.

A pathway from the beach to downtown.

On our second day, we took a ferry to the island of Cozumel for an active day of snorkeling and exploring the beaches on the far side of the island.

On a rooftop, looking out at the colorful and palm tree-lined main street in Cozumel.

Waves crashing on the far-side of the island.

Lifeguard stand surrounded by rock and greenery.

Beach bug.

Snorkel session.

After experiencing the nightlife, and surviving a barefoot walk on the cracked pavement, we headed to Tulum, a yoga retreat town. This laid back beach town provides words of wisdom from street signs to inviting beach signs.

Self-explanatory.

Tulum also offers Mayan ruins, which are strategically placed on a dramatic cliff that plunges into the ocean.

View from the ruins.

The essentials: hydration, transportation, and readiness for the beach.

We rented bicycles to explore the ins and outs of Tulum.

Beach bungalow.

Overall, the coastal Mexican towns of Playa del Carmen and Tulum make for a fun tropical getaway. With warm turquoise waters, fantastic tacos, historic ruins, and colorfully sewn fabrics you can’t go wrong. These areas are touristy for good reason.

A Ride Through Koh Kong

Join me on the back of a motorcycle, traveling through the streets of Koh Kong, Cambodia!

San Francisco: Recommendations Around the City

Weaving through the streets of San Francisco’s flattest district, the Mission, I sauntered casually past cyclists and down graffiti alleyways. I stood before Bernal Heights hill. Unlike most hills in San Francisco, it is undeveloped besides the radio tower at the crest. I climbed the steep dirt path surrounded by straw-colored grasses, the California state flower, California poppy, and joined dog walkers. Atop are expansive views of the city. I oriented myself, noting places I had already visited and created a mental map of the city for later use. I could have used google maps, but sometimes getting lost allows you to find unforeseen treasures. Read on for some of those jewels, including restaurant, museum, shopping, and activity recommendations.

Restaurants

Blue Plate, 3218 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110, blueplatesf.com

This eatery boasts American new dishes with a Mediterranean twist. Each dish is strategically laid out on the plate with artistic grace. It won my affection for the most impressive restaurant I ate at on my trip. Unique pairings from locally-sourced farms were mouth-watering, such as artichoke soup with raspberries and chopped peanuts sprinkled on top. My friend and I opted to eat tapas-style and sampled several dishes. The atmosphere was cozy and rustic with an open kitchen. Divided into three main rooms, we sat in the middle, where we enjoyed a glass of red wine and relished in flavorful moments.

Cinderella Bakery & Cafe, 436 Balboa St, San Francisco, CA 94118, http://cinderellabakery.com/home.html

Moving from Blue plate’s innovative take on American, Cinderella’s slides in with traditional done right. I stumbled upon this Russian Bakery & Café while seeking out completely different food. My friend, who lived in Korea for some time, tipped me off about a great Korean place located by the Conservatory of Flowers, a botanical garden in Golden Gate Park.

As I came to a halt in front of Muguboka, the Korean restaurant, it was dark. I found a sign confirming my suspicion it was closed on Tuesdays. I looked across the street and saw a bakery with wood-paneled outdoor seating surrounded by an oasis of succulents. I darted toward it, eager to find a place to recharge my camera and review my photographs of rare flowers from the Conservatory. As I entered, a waft of savory meat lay in the air. I realized this would not be a quick stop for a camera charge. Instead, my eyes scanned the Russian menu of meat pies and sandwiches.

This Russian gem on Balboa Street has homey foods that could conjure late Tsars from their graves by its sheer smell of alluring sweet and savory treats. Adding to it’s gravitational pull is its proximity to museums of interest, such as the deYoung Museum https://deyoung.famsf.org/, Academy of Science http://www.calacademy.org/, Japanese Tea Garden http://japaneseteagardensf.com/, and San Francisco Botanical Garden http://www.sfbotanicalgarden.org/.

El Techo, 2516 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110, http://eltechosf.com/

This Latin American rooftop restaurant has sweeping city views. It lies above its sister restaurant, Lolinda http://lolindasf.com/. Wait in line, proceed past the beautiful attendant, who manages to pull off a buzz cut, and ride an elevator to the top floor. There seems like a lot of waiting involved, but it’s worth the unobscured city views and delicious small plates, featuring Argentine grilled meats. Dim lights, city views, and a young crowd chatting away under heat lamps on chillier nights make this place memorable.

Dandelion, 740 Valencia St., San Francisco, CA 94110, https://www.dandelionchocolate.com/

Chocolate lovers: you’ll be in heaven. No milk chocolate is served at this chocolate factory and café on Valencia Street in the Mission district. This small batch chocolate maker sells only 70% cocoa and higher. Chocolate is made on site with two ingredients: cocoa beans and sugar.

Activities

• Bike over Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito and Tiberon. Take the ferry back to the city.

• Meander through city districts.

• Climb Bernal Heights hill for superb city views.

• See and be seen at Mission Delores Park.

• Take a side trip to breath-taking Yosemite National Park.

Shopping

You’ll find uniquely curated stores on the streets listed below with clothing, home goods, antiques, and plenty of restaurants, bars, and coffee shops. Each street has its own character, giving off funky, chic, and lively vibes.

• Valencia Street-for the hipster-leaning folk
• Hayes Street-for chic individuals
• Linden Street-for Hayes Street’s on-trend sibling
• Haight-Ashbury-for a trip back to the 60’s
• Castro Street-everyone’s welcome!

San Francisco’s neighborhoods are interesting to walk through when you’re not in a rush. Each area is full of artistic delights, good coffee, and varied museums. If you’re visiting the city, check out Blue Plate for American new, Cinderella’s for Russian, El Techo for Latin American, and Dandelion for desert.  Of the museums I visited, Academy of Science was my favorite because of the wide array of sea creatures and because I went to adult night, which featured an outdoor rock concert. The art museum I enjoyed most, not mentioned above, was Legion of Honor for its collection of Auguste Rodin’s sculptures and the mummies and medicine exhibition. Get out there and start exploring!

 

Video Blog: Three Weeks In Cambodia

I’m back from Cambodia! Tropical beaches, magnificent waterfalls, and ancient temples have occupied my days during the past three weeks. I’ve created a video, which gives you a glimpse into Cambodian life and a sneak peek at upcoming blog posts.

There’s a little bit of everything in the video: my motorcycle ride to Tatai Waterfall, monkeys, chickens, and more.

Look out for posts on Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Koh Kong, and the countryside village of Longvek.

Follow me on Instagram @alid516 and Twitter @travelingalison to see photos from the trip!

Summertime Destinations: Martha’s Vineyard

Celebrities, musicians, and presidents’ vacation on an island off the coast of Massachusetts, only accessible by boat and air. Among the long list of well known vacationers are President Obama, the Clintons, Carly Simon, James Taylor, Diane Sawyer, and Ted Danson. The late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Ted Kennedy, and Walter Cronkite all had ties to the Vineyard as well.

Driftwood Flower Box

Beautiful beaches, restaurants, and nature trails line the island. Locally made artisan goods are sold at outdoor flea markets. Farm fresh eggs and local produce can be found at road-side stands. Combined, the six towns that make up Martha’s Vineyard have a lot to offer.

Dog Boarding

Originally populated by the Wampanoag American Indian tribe, the Vineyard is now known as an affluent summer destination. Martha’s Vineyard was the name given to a small island south of the main island in 1602 by English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold. Later, the main island took the name Martha’s Vineyard. Martha is thought to have been Gosnold’s mother-in-law or his second child.

Great Rock Bight

English settlers joined the Wampanoag tribe in populating the island when Thomas Mayhew purchased the island from English “owners”, along with neighboring Nantucket and the Elizabeth Islands. Mayhew honored the native’s land rights and therefore they were friendly with one another.

Martha’s Vineyard is made up of six towns; Tisbury (which includes Vineyard Haven and West Chop), West Tisbury, Oak Bluffs (incuding East Chop), Edgartown (inducing islands Chappaquidick, or “Chappy”, and Katama), Chilmark (including Menemsha), and Aquinnah (where the Wampanoag tribe is located).

Menemsha

Each town has a unique offering. In Oak Bluffs, where the Flying Horses Carousel is located, children can try their chance at receiving a free ride if they catch the brass ring.

Another notable feature of Oak Bluffs is the community of multicolored gingerbread cottages. The best time to enjoy the cottages is on Grand Illumination Night, when all the gingerbread houses decorate with colorful Chinese and Japanese lanterns and bands play at the Tabernacle.

Lantern in my Aunt’s garden, which reminds me of Illumination Night.

My favorite activity in Aquinnah is to walk along Moshup Beach and admire the dramatic red, orange, white, and beige clay cliffs. There is also a lighthouse to explore, fantastic views, and tribal stores.

In Chilmark, as you pass by mailboxes bearing names like “Chillhead,” you eventually find the cozy fishing village of Menemsha, where you can walk out on the jetty and take in a sunset. Chilmark also has Great Rock Bight, a preserve you can hike to get to a rocky beach with rock sculptures.

If you need a break from the beach, check out locally made goods at the flea market, which provide such treasures as sea glass necklaces or framed photographs of the island.

In the largest town, Edgartown, you can catch some waves at Katama/South Beach or do some shopping downtown.

Explore and you shall find…

Sometimes, though, it is the seclusion that makes the vineyard special. Tucked away, down a dirt road in the middle of the woods, I find my aunt and uncle’s house. Here, I can peacefully lie in a hammock, wander through their exquisite garden, or walk the back trails by a horse farm and admire a tiny pond most vacationers will never see. I can rummage through old records in their basement then dance to them in the kitchen while preparing a meal of island-grown produce.

Yes, please.

Among the Trees

On this particular morning, I woke up and decided to wander out the front door with a bowl to pick berries to add to my breakfast. As I approach the blackberry briar, I hear some rustling to my right. I look up to see a deer bounding from the blueberry patch into the forest.

Blueberries, blackberries, and huckleberries from the yard.

Focusing on which berries to pick prior to a deer bounding past.

After collecting berries, I sit on the deck with my coffee, breakfast spread, and a good book.

Fresh Picked From the Front Yard

There is so much more to share about the vineyard, but for now, I leave you with a list of some of my favorite beaches:

1. Best beach/pond combination (so you can have the juxtaposition of wild ocean and calm pond water): Long Point Wildlife Refuge, West Tisbury

Long Point Wildlife Refuge

2. Best social scene/off roading beach: Katama/South Beach, Edgartown

3. Best hiking beach: Great Rock Bight, Chilmark

4. Most scenic beach: Moshup Beach, Aquinnah

Clay Cliffs at Moshup Beach in Aquinnah

Multi-colored clay along Moshup Beach

5. Best Private/Most obscure rock creation beach: Lucy Vincent, Chilmark

Lucy Vincent – Chilmark resident only beach

Interesting Rock formations on Lucy Vincent

6. Best boardwalk run/bike then jump in ocean off a bridge beach: Joseph Sylvia State Beach, Oak Bluffs

7. Best lobster dinner while watching sunset beach: Menemsha Town Beach

Summertime Destinations: Wellfleet

Salty delight: my palate experiences a fresh liquid consistency that satisfies my weekend seafaring mindset. A burst of flavor comes from horseradish and cocktail sauce, which only accentuates the taste of the oyster.

I am in a town that was originally named “Port Aux Huitres,” or Oyster Port.

Oysters were collected by my friend at 3pm and on our plate by 7pm. It was nice to know, for once, how fresh my seafood was.

Atop a cliff at Lecount Hollow Beach, also referred to as Maguire’s Landing.

Port Aux Huitres is now called Wellfleet, which either comes from “Whale Fleet”, a nod to the prominence of whaling during the time of renaming, or, as others dispute, it refers to a popular English brand of oysters.

Indeed, Wellfleet has a history of many names. Upon being settled in the 1650’s and encompassing more land, including, Eastham, it was called “Billingsgate”, after a fish market in East London.

In my blog post, Montréal; a dual post on Burlington,Vermont and Montreal, I mention French explorer Samuel de Champlain for whom Lake Champlain is named. Champlain also discovered Wellfleet in 1606. It wasn’t settled until the 1650’s.

Hiking the Bay side of Wellfleet

This coastal town is nestled in the hook, or “elbow” of Massachusetts. Wellfleet is home to fishermen, artists, and frequented by some well-known leftist intellectuals, such as Noam Chomsky; “father of modern linguistics” and political commentator, and Howard Zinn; historian and author of A People’s History of the United States of America.

Some young locals I’ve met over the years who live in Wellfleet year round make their living in the summer months and travel to exotic coastal locales in the winter, where they can keep the beach days alive and continue surfing in hot weather. When summer arrives here, droves of day-trippers and vacationers flock.

Sand Art

Wellfleet is roughly 70% preserved land, half of which is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, which was created by President John F. Kennedy to protect ponds, woods, and beachfront. The town is not only home to ocean, but several ponds. Beachgoers have their choice of calm or active water.

The shore stretches on for miles and has dramatic cliffs and bluffs. Low tide can be fun with tide pools available to discover aquatic life. Wave size varies by beach, even though they are along the same coast, with some better for surfing and others for calm swimming.

Cahoon Hollow Beach is dramatic in scenery, with a steep drop from the parking lot to the beach. This is the party beach of Wellfleet, with a young crowd playing water sports and volleyball. Completing your beach experience is The Beachcomber, a restaurant and bar, were you can grab a cocktail and relax at the raw bar after your swim. If you are staying in town, you can take in live music at night.

Down the road is White Crest Beach, which is less crowded and one of the best for surfing. It is also the only town-owned beach where hang gliding is allowed.

Still, further down the road lies a beach with a steep walk to the sand. LeCount Hollow, also known as Maguire’s Landing. This beach is less crowded than Cahoon Hollow, but is gorgeous, and has an ice cream truck for those who want to enjoy a sweet treat.

Shoe collection of beachgoers at LeCount’s

If you’re looking for beautiful National Seashore beaches, Nauset and Marconi are nearby. Marconi Beach, in South Wellfleet, was named after Guglielmo Marconi, the Italian inventor, who, in 1903, carried out the first trans-Atlantic wireless transmission between the United States and England. The first call sign was “CC” for Cape Cod.

Snap Shot:

Known for: Oysters

Best Activity: Beach

Buy local catches/Enjoy ice cream at: Mac’s Seafood

Best Nightlife: The Beachcomber

If you’re in the mood for reading more on Noam Chomsky at a local haunt in Wellfleet (i.e the town dump), check out the article below, written by Lydia Millet and published in the Columbia Journal.

Click to access Lydia%20Millet.pdf